Not really. There are lively discussions going on in most, often involving politics, in particular. Some similarities with Vienna in 1933. More than one would like, but that's just because 2026 is more like 1933 than one would like.
In some of the cafes they are just playing chess, admittedly, but you make your rounds. Actually the most effective way to keep up with what is going on.
Occasionally a drunk has to be thrown out and someone is monologuing to himself in a corner,